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FAQ

Frequently Asked Questions

Answers to the questions Boise homeowners ask us most about tree removal, pricing, permits, and scheduling.

Common Questions

All Questions

We serve all of Boise, ID including ZIP codes 83702, 83703, 83704, 83705, 83706, 83709, 83712, 83713, 83716, and 83726, plus surrounding Ada County communities within about 25 miles of our shop on McGlochlin St. See our full service area list.

Yes. We carry general liability insurance and follow the City of Boise's licensing requirements for tree services performing work on public trees. Ask for a certificate of insurance any time.

Call us or fill out our online form with a few details about your property and the tree(s) in question. We'll follow up quickly, walk your property, and give you a written quote before any work begins - no obligation to book.

Routine tree removal and pruning are typically scheduled within a few business days to a couple of weeks depending on season. Emergency calls - trees on a structure or blocking access - are prioritized and handled same-day whenever possible.

Standard removal includes chipping brush and hauling away trunk wood unless you'd prefer to keep it (for firewood, for example). Just tell us your preference when you book.

We accept major credit cards, checks, and cash. Ask about payment options during your estimate.

Most residential tree removals in the Boise area run from a few hundred dollars for a small ornamental tree to $1,500-$3,000+ for a large, hazardous, or hard-to-access mature tree. Price depends on height, trunk diameter, species, lean, proximity to structures or power lines, and whether a crane is needed. We provide a written estimate on-site before any work starts - see our full cost guide for a detailed breakdown.

Generally no, if the tree is fully on your private property. Boise's tree ordinance mainly applies to trees in the public right-of-way (between the sidewalk and street) and on other city property, which require a permit and a City-licensed tree service. We'll tell you when we look at your tree if your situation falls under that rule.

Yes. Call our main line any time; after-hours and weekend emergency calls are prioritized based on severity - trees on structures or blocking sole access get the fastest response.

Get everyone out of the affected area, do not go onto the roof or attempt to move debris yourself, and call us along with your insurance company. If the tree is touching a power line or there's a gas smell, call 911 first.

Most mature shade trees benefit from a structural check every 3-5 years, while young trees should be pruned more frequently (every 1-2 years) during their first decade to establish good form. Fruit trees and ornamentals often need annual pruning.

Late winter, while trees are dormant, is generally the best time for major structural pruning since it's easier to see branch structure and reduces stress on the tree. Deadwooding and hazard-limb removal, though, can be done any time of year.

Stump grinding is typically priced by diameter, often in the range of roughly $2-3 per inch of stump diameter with a minimum service charge, so a small stump might run $75-150 and a large stump several hundred dollars. Multiple stumps ground in the same visit usually cost less per stump. We'll give you an exact price on-site.

You can after grinding, but you may hit old root material a foot or two down. If you specifically want a new tree in that exact spot, full stump and root removal gives you a cleaner planting hole.

Yes - we regularly clear trees, stumps, and brush from residential building lots ahead of construction, sized to your builder's timeline and site plan.

Absolutely - selective clearing that preserves specific mature or specimen trees while removing everything else is one of our most common requests, especially on wooded infill lots.

Often yes if the tree damaged a covered structure like your roof, garage, or fence, or if removal is required to prevent further covered damage. Coverage for a tree down in the yard with no property damage varies by policy - check with your carrier. We provide photo documentation and itemized invoices for claims either way.

Yes, treat a cracked or hanging limb (sometimes called a widow-maker) as urgent. It can fail with no further warning, especially in wind. Keep people and pets away from the area underneath and call us.

In winter, scratch a small patch of bark on a twig with your fingernail - green, moist tissue underneath means the branch is alive; brown, dry tissue means it's dead. A whole-tree assessment (especially checking for fungal growth at the base and canopy die-back in the growing season) gives a more reliable answer, which we're happy to provide on an on-site visit.

Not necessarily more expensive, but sometimes more complex - brittle wood and hidden decay can require different rigging and more caution, which we factor into the estimate after assessing the specific tree.

In practice we use the terms for the same core work - cutting a tree down. "Removal" more specifically implies full cleanup and haul-away of all debris, which we include by default; ask if you'd prefer to keep cut wood on-site instead.

We can cut back growth on your side of the line, but removing a tree whose trunk sits on a shared or neighboring property generally requires the other owner's consent under Idaho property law. We're glad to talk through the specifics of your situation during an estimate.

Yes - we can document tree condition, recommended action, and photos in a form suitable for board meetings, insurance review, or maintenance records.

Yes, we work with property management companies managing several sites and can set up recurring maintenance schedules across a portfolio.

Call or fill out our form and we'll schedule an on-site visit to quote anticipated tree work (removal, pruning, etc.). In-depth documented assessments - for real estate transactions, HOA records, or formal risk reports - may carry a fee depending on scope; we'll quote that upfront.

In most cases, yes - a visual assessment from the ground (and sometimes an aerial inspection) can identify the major risk indicators. Some internal decay requires more specialized tools (like a resistance drill or sonic tomography) that we can refer out for if needed.

Still Have Questions?

Call us directly - we're happy to talk through your specific situation before you book anything.